Time flies in the fashion industry – like really flies! London is long gone, and so is Milan. Now Paris is on the menu, but
first I want to share my top 4 shows from London. Even though I'm not the London Fashion Week girl, there are some
designers I keep a closer eye one every time, like J.W. Anderson and Joseph. Also this time there was some 'new'
ones that caught my attention.
As for so many other fashion freaks out there, my expectations for the J.W. Anderson collection was high – not to mention
the curiosity after his last ground breaking fall collection, where he introduced the 'random' 80's. Even though I'm not
the playful J.W. Anderson woman, I still love his collections! They're packed with inspiration; great color combinations
(like the pinkish beige, black and white), the masculine yet feminine silhouettes of the garments, the bags... There is literally
inspiration to pick up in every look – or whole looks of course if you're more daring than me. His last collection is full
of oddness, but yet it makes you feel the typical fashion rush (or desire if you like): "I don't like it, it's not me" and then,
in almost the exact same second, you rethink it and it's like "I have to try it! And it has to happen now". I don't know why
I of all people feel this rush, but my guess is that the collection itself is a bit to 'wow' for me, but when you break the
collection down, to every single garment, there are some really good classics (with a twist) there. And I feel like I need
some of them in my closet – like right now...
Simple, clean and as often said these days masculine yet feminine – a mix that is more everyday friendly than a lot
of collections these days. But this is also Joseph in a nutshell. Menswear touched womenswear as always but with
a new and more daring twist than we're used too see Louise Trotter's collections. There was the classic skirts, the
crispy white shirts (of course) and the sweaters, but these where all held together with twists and turns; it the looks
seemed even more relaxed than usual, but in a way yet more feminine too. But the new twists wasn't the change that
convinced me, it was the feminine suiting; especially the all black suit-look. The sexy v-neckline and the slightly wide
sleeves, on the masculine silhouette is a perfect picture on Trotter's new twist on the role models of male and female.
The typical Versace looks has never really touched me. I've never seen the this-is-so-me look in the previous collections,
not until now. Anthony Vaccarello has done some really good changes in the Versus Versace SS16 collection, he has
added a touch of Vaccarello; less colors, more black – and well that is so me! I said it. He has still preserved the house
codes; the lion-head medallions, the legginess, the cutouts and the shapes, and of course the tailoring. BUT there
is a new, more modern and daywear friendly Versace we're seeing. Vaccarello has succeeded in the mix of old and new.
My definite favorites are the 'new' jackets/blazers. The typical Vaccarello shapes (in black of course) with Versace lion-head
buttons. Congrats Vaccarello, this collection was a great surprise!
Colorful, geometric models walked down the runway of Roksanda Ilincic's show. Ilincic is known for her use of strong
colors and voluminous aesthetic, but as you know colors is quite my thing. Neither is voluminous pieces, but there is
something with the ones in this collection that really makes me reconsider my relationship with voluminous clothing;
especially the wide-cut pats with contrast seams in beige. Not to mention the transparent A-shaped poncho jacket with
black bengal stripes. The way Ilincic has mange to do voluminous on voluminous is interesting. She has done it in a way
that doesn't take the feminine side away from the models, not at all. By adding feminine details like the lace high-heeled
ballerinas and the mille-feuille shredded chiffon neck decorations she has managed to keep the soft and romantic side of
women. Even though I might not be doing the big-on-big just now, I would definitely do the wide trousers with a slim
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